When you think of Asakusa, you probably picture Senso-ji Temple and the Kaminarimon Gate. But have you heard of another side of Asakusa? It’s Hoppy Dori, affectionately known to locals as “Stew Street.”
Hoppy Dori is a nostalgic, Showa-era style pub street located just a short walk from Kaminarimon Gate. The street is lined with pubs marked by red lanterns, bustling with energy from midday. While more and more international tourists are discovering it, the area retains a local vibe, making it a valuable spot to experience authentic Japanese pub culture.
This article shares our experience visiting the popular pub “Totoya” and introduces the charm and ways to enjoy Hoppy Dori. Get ready to dive into delicious, affordable B-grade gourmet food and soak up the lively street atmosphere.
What is Hoppy Dori?
A Deeply Loved Local Pub Street
Hoppy Dori is situated about a 5-minute walk west of Kaminarimon Gate. Its official name is “Koen Hon-dori,” but it earned its nickname because so many of the pubs serve the popular drink “Hoppy.”
The charm of this street is its energy and atmosphere. Tables are set up on the road, where people gather to drink from lunchtime. The friendly atmosphere makes it easy to chat with people at the next table or talk to the staff. It’s like stepping into a movie set, offering a glimpse into a truly authentic Japanese night out.
3 Tips for Enjoying Hoppy Dori
A Few Simple Rules for First-Timers
Here are three tips to help first-time visitors enjoy Hoppy Dori to the fullest.
- Learn How to Drink Hoppy!
“Hoppy” is a low-alcohol, beer-flavored beverage. You order a “Hoppy Set,” which includes a glass with shochu (“naka”) and a bottle of Hoppy (“soto”). You then pour the Hoppy from the bottle into your glass of shochu. When the bottle is empty, you can order just the “naka” (shochu refill) to use up the rest of your Hoppy. - Try Pub-Hopping!
There are over 20 pubs on Hoppy Dori. Instead of staying at one, it’s a great idea to hop between a few to try different foods and drinks. Since each pub has a unique menu and atmosphere, finding your favorite is part of the fun. - Drink with the Locals!
When you’re drinking at one of the open-air tables, you’ll naturally make eye contact or start a conversation with people at the next table. A smile and some gestures are all you need, even if your Japanese is limited. You might even make new friends!
Our “Totoya” Experience
Marked by Red Lanterns: The Pub’s Vibe
Among the many pubs, we visited “Totoya,” a well-established place that’s been around for over 60 years. Its striking red lanterns and the lively laughter spilling from inside make it easy to spot.
Inside, you’ll find both counter and table seating, plus more tables outside. Stepping into the pub, you’re immediately immersed in the atmosphere of a classic Japanese izakaya, with handwritten menus on the walls and the staff’s energetic shouts.
Trying a Hoppy Set for the First Time
We ordered the famous “Hoppy Set.” The staff handed us a bottle of Hoppy and a glass with shochu. Following their instructions, we poured the Hoppy into our glass. The DIY style was fun and new! Hoppy has a clean, crisp taste that pairs well with any dish.
Delicious B-Grade Eats: Stew and Skewers
The signature dish of Hoppy Dori is “nikomi” (stew). Totoya’s nikomi was exceptional, with melt-in-your-mouth tender offal in a sweet and savory miso-based broth. It was a perfect match for the Hoppy.
We also ordered “kushiyaki” (grilled skewers). The chicken and vegetable skewers, grilled over charcoal, were incredibly fragrant. The chicken skin was particularly good, with a crispy exterior and a juicy interior that made us want to order more.
We couldn’t resist our cravings and ordered two of our favorites: grilled mentaiko and ponzu shirako!
After Asakusa Sightseeing, Head to Hoppy Dori!
Why Is It So Popular with Tourists?
Hoppy Dori’s popularity with international visitors isn’t just about the cheap and delicious food; it’s about getting an authentic feel for local Japanese culture. You can experience the true daily life of Tokyo, not just the places you find in guidebooks.
Since many pubs are open from noon, it’s the perfect spot for a late lunch or early dinner after visiting Senso-ji Temple and Nakamise-dori.
Experience Authentic Izakaya Culture
Hoppy Dori is more than just a place to enjoy great food and Hoppy; it’s a place to enjoy warm interactions and a vibrant atmosphere. It’s a chance to feel like a character in a movie and experience a deeper side of Tokyo.
On your next trip to Asakusa, make sure to visit Hoppy Dori and find your own favorite spot!
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